28 Posti is a quiet place. It appeared quite orderly in Via Corsico, a minimalist and collected spot with only 28 seats and an external area that overlooks Naviglio in the background. A restaurant that since its inception in 2013 has got people talking a lot, always maintaining an air of discretion and nonchalance.
Marco Ambrosino is the young chef from Procida that brought to the place the right amount of experimentation and avant-garde to seasonal cooking, with clear origins from Campania. For these reasons, the menu changes every two months, leaving intact some iconic chef’s dishes. Consequently, the suggested formula is that of a 5, 8 or 10 course tasting menu, which can also be combined with a selection of wines.
Ambrosino is a true experimenter in the kitchen, a practice that stands out from the common trend – and at times sophisticated – making all sides of his creations deserving of our attention, as they take us beyond conventional understanding of taste and choice. There is no lack of smoked dishes, seaweed and flavors of sea urchins and oysters, truffles, plankton, powders, aromas and spices. You will be amazed by the apparent simplicity of a dish called “fermented cabbage, truffle and bergamot”. A spark of taste, consistency and aromas. Great. However, the first prize goes to “Chiajozza – a homage to Procida”: shrimp tartare, raw squills, sea urchin ice cream, cabbage, sea pine oil and sand with squid ink. A dish full of flavors, more than marinated but balanced and addictive.
You must absolutely try “lamb presalé”. These are animals raised near maritime areas and are therefore accustomed to grazing in the grass of coastal meadows. The character of raw materials is evident in the plate, as the lamb – cooked to perfection – is accompanied by an oyster sauce, seaweed and nothing other than phytoplankton. Again, it’s an unusual taste, where the lamb’s luscious flavor collides with a precise marine note, perfectly capable of giving balance and value to the dish. Between one course and another, compliments from the kitchen attract all the attention: macarons with anchovies, apples and algae, green tea roulade and homemade bread with smoked butter and mushroom powder.
Spending an evening at 28 Posti means letting yourself go, surrendering to a journey rich in taste, varied and often able to bring you to primitive essentials and flavors that are strong, pure, invasive and unknown. A place to go to on an empty stomach but more than ever with an empty mind, which will analyze, absorb and explore recipes and combinations. Next time I will try the famous tagliolini with leek, capers powder and candied lemon. Thank you, chef Ambrosino!
Photo credit © 28 Posti